Day: September 19, 2024

BEYOND BEN GURION’S VISION

From ancient traders to modern tourists, the changing landscape of Israel’s Negev desert.

By Motti Verses

Revered as the founder of the Jewish state and a strong believer in the future of Israel’s arid desert – the Negev, David Ben-Gurion dreamed of developing this region and pursued his vision by personal example. At the age of 67, together with his wife Paula, the couple left the ‘city life’ of Tel Aviv to make Sde Boker, a pioneering kibbutz in the Negev their home. Living in a modest dwelling, it remained his home until his death in 1973.

Prime Minister to private citizen. Capturing the lifestyle of a kibbutz pioneer, the simple bedroom of Ben-Gurion kibbutz Desert Home bedroom. (photo: Motti Verses)

Declaring that it is in the Negev “that the creativity and pioneer vigor of Israel shall be tested,” Ben-Gurion linked the ingenuity and determination of the people of Israel to meet the Zionist challenge of  “making the desert bloom”.  For decades, his dream inspired Israelis of all backgrounds and ideologies to follow with a sense of collective purpose. However, the outcome fell vastly short from what he had envisioned. While Ben Gurion dreamed that by 1968, 500,000 people would live in the Negev, the population did not reach this figure until 2003 – well over three decades later. The main towns he envisaged as potential growth centers like Dimona and Mitzpe Ramon remain relatively small and the southern Red Sea city of Eilat has shown to be commercially marginal as a port, so seen in recent times that while Yemen Houthis are blocking free passage through the Red Sea, goods to Israel are being rerouted to its Mediterranean ports, ensuring the flow of international trade. Even though agriculture and mining, while impressively innovative did not meet Ben Gurion’s expectations, prosperity did however come but from an industry, the great leader himself did not vision at the time – TOURISM.

Not long before October 7 2023, the Ministry of Tourism formulated an ambitious plan to transform the Negev into a global tourist hotspot that would attract annually over a million tourists from around the world. The plan involves the construction of a multitude of tourist attractions in sync with the Negev’s unique desert environment including inter alia, nature parks, hiking trails, cycling tracks and of course alluring hotels.

While Ben Gurion never saw the potential in his time of tourism, ironically, many of the Negev’s tourist attractions today have a strong connection with the visionary leader. Visitors attracted to this dry region will likely not miss out on visiting Ben-Gurion’s Tomb National Park located a few kilometers south of Kibbutz Sde Boker where he lived with his wife.  The surrounding landscape is pleasantly populated with large herds of Nubian ibexes, majestic desert goat creatures so distinguishable by their horns. The male ibex grow giant horns that are arched backwards used mostly for sparring with other males for the right to mate with the females of the herd. The females’ horns are short and pointy.

Biblical Landscape. A panoramic breathtaking view from Ben-Gurion’s Tomb National Park of the Zin Valley, the longest wadi in the Negev that attracts visitors from across the country. (Photo: Motti Verses)

The surrounding landscapes are stunning. One can take a classic desert hike in the Zin Valley enjoying amazing views of the wilderness that will include Ein Akev, the biggest spring in the Negev and the ancient Nabatean city of Ein Avdat.

Resting Place. Ben-Gurion’s Tomb National Park in Sde Boker hosts ibexes enjoying the greenery (left) and the graves of David Ben Gurion and wife Paula. (photo: Motti Verses)

Closer to ‘home’ is Ben Gurion’s  desert home, today an illuminating museum. Preserved in its original condition as Ben Gurion requested, it is a testimony to the lifestyle of a community that founded and established the Jewish state in the early days. The hut still holds Ben Gurion’s original furniture from the 1960s, and you can see his kitchen, bedroom, and a library full of books in multiple languages. Few know that his books, apart from those in Hebrew,  include books in English, German, French, Arabic, Latin, Russian, Turkish and Greek.

Learned Leader.  A man of books in multiple languages is all too evident at Ben-Gurion kibbutz Desert Home – today a well visited museum. (photo: Motti Verses)

It is fascinating that the trendy developments taking place today in the Negev follow in the path of the ancient Nabateans, an enigmatic ancient tribe mentioned numerous times in the bible. They controlled trade along the famed Incense Route that stretched from southern Arabia through their capital Petra to the land of Israel, via the Negev desert. They originally constructed small waystations in the Negev that in time grew into larger settlements and as the Nabatean community in the Negev grew, new towns were constructed in the desert wilderness.

This ancient mysterious tribe we know so little about, fascinated Ben Gurion, who admired their talents, particularly in agriculture – as it was an achievement to master cultivation in a dry arid desert.  You can still see the remains of the Nabatean networks of small channels and aqueducts in order to make the most of the only 80 ml of rain to irrigate their terrace farms. They appeared out of history as a role model for Ben Gurion and it is little wonder he referred to them as an example of the possible  realization of his vision. He marveled how they, in order to produce olive oil, grew olive trees in the desert. Few know that when Ben-Gurion was the chairman of the board of the Jewish Agency during WW II, he even proposed to place the capital of the future Jewish state in Mamshit that had been one of the major cities of the Nabateans in the Negev, starting out as an ancient caravan stop.

So too had been Sde Boker, akin to a “caravan stop”, for until 2020, this kibbutz was just a stopover for visitors and tourists on route to elsewhere. That was until Isrotel, one of Israel’s leading hotel brands, inaugurated in the middle of the Covid pandemic, its latest hotel – Kedma. Nowadays, when Israel is preoccupied with the crisis of war, the hotel quietly marks its 4th anniversary. To discover more of this relatively new alluring addition to the desert landscape, I headed south with my beloved family, following in the path of the ancient Nabateans.

Commercial Nomads. A painting of the Nabateans – the controllers of trade routes – depicted by an anonymous painter, on sale in a gift shop in Petra Jordan. (Photo: Motti Verses)

“We at Isrotel believe strongly in the desert and we proudly proclaim it by ever-expanding our presence in the hospitality industry in Israel’s desert region,” says Lior Raviv, Chief Executive Officer of Isrotel. “We started at ‘Pundak Ramon’, which was our first hotel, currently under renovations, and then our majestic ‘Beresheet’ overlooking the awesome Ramon Crater. Our newest Negev addition to the Isrotel family is ‘Kedma’, in walking distance from the home of David Ben-Gurion.”

Desert Delights. “We believe strongly in the desert”  says Lior Raviv, Chief Executive Officer Isrotel (right) to the writer. (Photo: Motti Verses)

Lodge-style and built on one floor, “It provides an authentic desert experience and is proving a super popular hotel,” he says. 

The 2-hour drive south from central Israel in the last week of August, confronting busy traffic, was surreal when then finding it a challenge to find a parking spot in the desert, next to the Kedma hotel.  This came as a surprise considering the reality of the country being at war. Also surprising was my erroneous assumption that in the heat of an intense Israeli summer, local Israeli tourists, especially families, would prefer a waterfront location. I was wrong!

Serene Sights. Kedma, a Khan style resort, offering 163 rooms and suites built around a courtyard with a serene pool  (Photo: Motti Verses)

The moment we stepped into the busy Kedma lobby for our group check in, I found myself completely captivated by the interior design. A Khan-style resort, Kedma offers 163 rooms and suites built around an expansive open-air courtyard with a serene pool. It is surrounded by luscious fruit trees, most of them mentioned in the Bible, together with plants, creating an environment of a desert oasis. The impressive designs of the Lobby and restaurants captures the ambiance of the desert and structurally pays tribute to the Nabateans and the ancient Incense Route. Impatiently I rushed to hear the explanations of the award-winning interior designer, Ruth Arad. “The design is conceptually rooted to the desert and inspired by the ancient Nabatean route used for transporting spices and fragrances,” she says. “The main lobby is long and narrow, symbolizing the endless wandering in the desert. The lounge is presented with a tent-like structure using ropes, fostering intimacy and connection. The main dining room reflects a desert Sukkah and an atmosphere of minimal illumination while dining in the evenings,” she explains.

I admired the use of the Islamic-influenced ‘Moucharaby’ windows characterized by the use of grills to replace glass and shutters. Quite extraordinary!

Road of Revelations. The long narrow Kedma lobby, symbolizes endless wandering through the desert along the ancient ‘Perfume and Incense Trade Route’.(Photo: Motti Verses)

The ceilings in most of the outside open areas are low and the lighting twinkles like stars. We loved the ground sitting with cushions and feeling like Nabateans in designated corners with a fireplace in the center, enjoying a typical desert oasis night atmosphere.  

Lounge and its Legacy. The Lounge projects a desert tent-like structure using ropes, fostering intimacy. (Photo: Motti Verses)

With the Kedma a buzz with mostly local tourists this past August, we entered the main restaurant gravitating to the Buffet table offering a delicious array of food that would have the ancient Nabateans salivating. We were.

Pulsating Past. The dining room – a design deeply rooted in the connection to the desert, with a Sukkah in the center (Photo: Motti Verses)

Cutting through the queues and the noise, the service was tops. I assumed that the resort enjoying a ‘full house’ had to do with the relatively safe geographic location far removed from the war in Gaza and in the north of the country. However, my assumption was wrong. “We have been busy all the time since the opening four years ago. Guests just love it here,” says General  Manager, Boaz Zur and I fully understand why.

Awakening the Senses. Soak up converging cultures in the Hotel’s luxurious unique Hammam (steam bath). (Photo: Motti Verses)

And when I teasingly challenged interior designer Arad of “Where in Kedma is the spirit of Ben Gurion?” she was spot-on with a spirited response:

“He is everywhere here. The founder of Israel had a vision to make the desert bloom, well, we fulfilled his dream. He wanted the Negev to offer employment opportunities, well, Kedma is a desirable sought after workplace and as far as hoping to change a negative mindset about the desert, this green oasis as you can see is super popular. People are flocking here. Did you not say you had to look for parking when you arrived? No, I’m sure Mr. Ben Gurion is smiling down with approval, particularly as we are in close walking distance from his home.”


The jaw dropping Israel Negev desert and the Kedma by Isrotel Khan/ 9/2024 MOTTI VERSES




*Feature picture: The writer looking at sunset at Ein Avdat, a magnificent canyon in the Negev south of Kibbutz Sde Boker. (Photo: Motti Verses)



About the writer:

The writer, Motti Verses, is a Travel Flash Tips publisher. His travel stories are published on THE TIMES OF ISRAEL  https://blogs.timesofisrael.com/author/motti-verses/. And his hospitality analysis reviews on THE JERUSALEM POST, are available on his Linkedin page LinkedIn Israelhttps://il.linkedin.com › motti-verse…Motti Verses – Publisher and Chief Editor – TRAVEL FLASH TIPSAnd his hospitality analysis reviews on THE JERUSALEM POST, are available on his Linkedin page LinkedIn Israelhttps://il.linkedin.com › motti-verse…Motti Verses – Publisher and Chief Editor – TRAVEL FLASH TIPS





While the mission of Lay of the Land (LotL) is to provide a wide and diverse perspective of affairs in Israel, the Middle East and the Jewish world, the opinions, beliefs and viewpoints expressed by its various writers are not necessarily ones of the owners and management of LOTL but of the writers themselves.  LotL endeavours to the best of its ability to credit the use of all known photographs to the photographer and/or owner of such photographs (0&EO).

OUR NOBLE, PROGRESSIVE, ANTI-ZIONIST JEWS

Trying to buy acceptance by selling their souls

By Stephen Schulman

Many moons ago, in fact in 1963, I had the dubious honour of being called up for compulsory military service in the South African Defence Forces. Basic training took place in Potchefstroom, in a large camp, 1200 km away from my birthplace of Cape Town. Recruits came from all sectors of SA society: Afrikaners, English speakers and a few Jews. We were all shapes and sizes, straight-laced and oddball, roughnecks and cultured. Most I have forgotten, but one particular individual remains in my memory.

Frankie hailed from Durban. He was short, to put it mildly, not good looking and a singularly unpleasant character. He also had, as he deeply felt, the misfortune to having been born a Jew: a sad state of affairs to which he set about to actively correct. Frankie would take great pains in declaring to all and sundry that not only did he not identify with his religion but disassociated himself from its practice. On Friday nights when the Jewish soldiers were taken to the synagogue for the service and then often invited for supper at the homes of the congregants – a welcome short break from army drudgery – Frankie out of solidarity with, and trying to be ‘one of the guys’ would stay on the base. To the best of my recollection, even when Passover arrived, forfeiting more than a week’s holiday leave, he demonstratively remained there.

Did he succeed in being accepted as ‘one of them’? Did he manage to slough off his born identity and meld with the greater group? Did this concerted effort boost his popularity? Not really. His toadying and groveling were of no avail and his efforts to ingratiate himself with the non-Jewish majority earned him no respect and no exalted status. Frankie’s nickname was ‘Ikey’, the little Jew who was seen by all as a bit of a curiosity. He was a sad, pitiable individual.

Why write about such an insignificant person? Simply because today, with this avalanche of wide spread antisemitism engulfing all Jews irrespective of their views and affiliations, there are many little ‘Ikeys’ running around, hoping for acceptance, and seeking to prove to one and all that they, unlike their co-religionists: are progressive, liberal, anti-racist, enlightened anti-Zionists, endowed with an elevated moral status and heightened sensitivity.

The Jewish Council of Australia, (JCA) formed in February 2024 is an excellent example of this pathetic genre. It purports to represent a growing number of Jewry and bleats the old hackneyed tropes that:

“The aim of Zionism — as with other versions of settler colonialism in countries like Australia — is to replace the indigenous people on their land with settlers. A lot of early Zionist ideologues were very open about this fact; the point was to conquer the land. The early Zionist project culminated in the expulsion of 750,000 Palestinians from their land during the Nakba”.

Rogue’s Gallery. Says Jewish Council of Australia (JCA) Executive Officer Dr Max Kaiser, an historian and lecturer at the University of Melbourne: “Israel is a rogue state”.

This pathetic and deeply flawed generalization, ignoring history, archeology and the Bible is a typical example of this stunted ideology blinding its believers to reality.

There has been a huge rise in antisemitism in Australia, but one of the esteemed cofounders of this organization in a prime example of warped logic and self-deception claims:  

“The harassment of Jews has come from fervent supporters of the Israeli government among the Jewish community as well as from “more blatant and openly violent” neo-Nazis”

Shortly after October 7th, on the steps of the Sydney Opera House, there was a mass demonstration of Muslims in support of and in jubilation joyously celebrating the massacre with shouts of “Gas the Jews” and other virulently antisemitic slogans. Naturally, in their eyes, the Muslims who were there and the leftist students at the universities harassing and intimidating Jewish students were as pure as the driven snow. And lest we forget, all those Hamas and Hezbollah flags at the anti-Israel demonstrations. Who were their supporters that were waving them? Were they the “fervent supporters of the Israeli government among the Jewish community”?

The Writing is on the Wall. By aligning itself with anti-Zionists, the Jewish Council of Australia (JCA) helps sow the seeds of antisemitism in Australia, physically endangering the Jewish community.  The JCA calls for Australia to cut all military ties and sanction Israel. Here we see the result – graffiti painted on a suburban wall in Melbourne that reads  “KILL JEWS – JEW LIVES HERE” .

The organization’s mission statement that “We are committed to the values of tikkun olam (repairing the world), calling out injustice, challenging assumptions and promoting debate” is an exercise in unashamed hypocrisy, blatant bias and pure pusillanimity. Hamas and Hezbollah are universally proscribed terror organizations whose covenant openly declares their aim of destroying the state of Israel. On October 7th 2023, Hamas invaded Israel indulging in acts of brutality and sadism that flew in the face of all civilized behaviour and shocked the world. Twelve hundred innocent people both Jews and Muslims of all ages and gender were murdered in an organized orgy of rape, sodomy, torture, maiming, burning alive and mass shootings. Two hundred and fifty more ranging from infants to infirm old people were kidnapped, held and are still being held in inhumane conditions. They have been starved, subjected to physical and psychological torture and many have been murdered.

What has been the reaction of the enlightened council’s founders to these atrocities? Not a bleat or a squeak in condemnation. The silence of the grave. Do Jewish lives not matter? Where is your much vaunted tikkun olam and calling out injustice?  Where is your social conscience? Is it only limited to finding reasons to besmirch Israel?  The world is rife with injustice and persecution. China persecutes the Uyghur people and is engaged in carrying out their cultural genocide. It persecutes the Falun Gong sect and engages in organ harvesting. It supports the evil regime of North Korea notorious for its human rights violations. Why your silence? But then, pragmatism dictates keeping your mouths shut. After all, Communist China is an important trading partner with big investments in Australia, most sensitive to any criticism and swift to react. We wouldn’t like to ruffle its feathers, would we? What about the millions of children starving in the Sudan? Hamas in clear contravention of norms has used and is using hospitals, schools and private homes as launch pads for attacks against Israel. Its warehouses are overflowing with food and medicines that were destined for and stolen from the civilian population, but never a word said, your only criticism has ever been against Israel. Your actions carry the strong stench of hypocrisy.

South African Jews for a Free Palestine (SAJFP) is an organization in a similar mould whose lengthy and wearying mission statement/catechism contains an odious concoction of all too well worn poisonous ideological tropes, distortions and deliberate lies that easily outdoes the Australian one. For all of us who do not have the fortitude to wade through this self righteous, verbose swamp, its content can be summed up in a few words: Israel, an apartheid state, is the pawn of Western imperialist, colonialist powers and Zionism is a corrosive force that corrupts and destroys. A few choice examples from the catechism: Zionism “is built on inequality, exclusion, settler-colonialism and violent ethnic cleansing and asserts an ethnic supremacy which is fundamentally racist.”  It also demands that all Jews place the state of Israel at the centre of Jewish existence, distorting and destroying other cherished parts of Jewish identity.”

Israel is also quite obviously an apartheid state, for “it also discriminates against Mizrachi, Arab and African Jews. SAJFP rejects the unfounded assumption that all Jews are white or access white privilege.” – a statement so ridiculous and twisted that it is beneath all contempt.

A prime example of ideological contortionism: “Zionism is not Judaism and the effort to conflate the two is itself a form of antisemitism because it reduces a diverse and dynamic cultural and religious group to a nation state.”

While the organization states: “SAJFP takes an anti- violence position” they also: “support the rights of the Palestinians to resist their oppression” and since they view: “the occupation of Palestine as violence”, they consequently “support the rights of the Palestinians to rise up against these (and other forms) of violence.”  It doesn’t require much effort to read between the lines and see why the SAJFP, true to form, has shockingly remained silent about and tacitly condoned the October 7th massacre.

 Seeking Acceptance.  Are these Jews in South Africa protesting for a “free Palestine” or Jews protesting to be free of the burden of being Jews?

Amongst other of their organized activities, on the 9th August, the SAJFP dutifully picketed the Cape Town Holocaust and Genocide Centre because they felt it did not relate to the “genocide” in Gaza where they likened the behaviour of the Israeli army to that of the Nazis. In keeping with their self righteousness, the members recited the Kaddish (mourner’s prayer) for the Gaza dead. The report on their site of this event ends with: “From the River to the Sea, Palestine will soon be free.” – the well-known clarion call, genocidal in intent, for the destruction of the Jewish State.

South African Jewry is currently experiencing a growing tidal wave of institutionalized and violent antisemitism that does not distinguish between the ideologies of the members of the community. SAJFP carries on its banner that: “it is fundamentally opposed to antisemitism.” Has it ever raised its voice in protest?  Does their site mention any activities against or any condemnation whatsoever of this despicable phenomenon? Of course not, but if you are looking for information about BDS, cutting all ties with, sanctioning Israel and its elimination, then you have come to the right place.

Jews for Jewish Destruction. Negating the thousands of years bond of Judaism to the state of Israel, these South Africa Jews support the BDS movement that promotes “cutting all ties with Israel…. sanctioning Israel and its elimination.”

The civilized world swiftly condemned the October 7th massacre and expressed its outrage and revulsion. Tragically, these two Jewish organizations, in their blind adherence to their distorted ideologies, have chosen to remain silent. They have a legitimate right to disagree with Zionism and to their opinions whatsoever. But, to willfully ignore the sadistic murder of twelve hundred of their fellow Jews, man, woman and child and the plight of another two hundred and fifty who were kidnapped and if still alive, are suffering in inhumane conditions simply because they are not on their side of the political spectrum is incomprehensible and unforgivable. It is the silence of assent. They have demonstrated an utter callousness and are devoid of one iota of compassion. They have negated their own Judaism and humanity.

Jewish history is tragically replete with so many instances of obsequious ‘little Ikeys‘bending over backwards to placate others and how they ended. Jewish humour reflects its history, the Jewish condition and its accumulated wisdom. It is mainly in a low key and very often is a ‘bittere gelegte‘ (Yiddish for bitter laughter) containing a poignant message that conveys unpleasant truths. There is a story of two Jews that walked into a bar. One was orthodox and a Zionist, the other was a confirmed atheist and fervent anti- Zionist and the bartender said:

“We don’t serve Jews here!”  

Let all these misguided ideologues read and take heed.





About the writer:

Stephen Schulman is a graduate of the South African Jewish socialist youth movement Habonim, who immigrated to Israel in 1969 and retired in 2012 after over 40 years of English teaching. He was for many years a senior examiner for the English matriculation and co-authored two English textbooks for the upper grades in high school. Now happily retired, he spends his time between his family, his hobbies and reading to try to catch up on his ignorance.





While the mission of Lay of the Land (LotL) is to provide a wide and diverse perspective of affairs in Israel, the Middle East and the Jewish world, the opinions, beliefs and viewpoints expressed by its various writers are not necessarily ones of the owners and management of LOTL but of the writers themselves.  LotL endeavours to the best of its ability to credit the use of all known photographs to the photographer and/or owner of such photographs (0&EO).